It's a Beautiful Day in My Neighborhood

The appetizing fragrance of tortilla española* wafts through my open window. The clanking of silverware and rapid maternal speech echo through the courtyard. It’s midnight. While I am ready to turn in for the night, the families that live in my building are just sitting down to dinner, their dynamics on display for everyone to see and hear. From another part of the building, I enjoy a different kind of performance. The flamenco singer who lives in the apartment below mine is practicing, his raspy voice gliding all over the scale, crooning Andalusian tunes.

The quiet, residential neighborhood of Alfonso XIII, more commonly known as El Barrio de Prosperidad, is a cesspool of a large variety of people from several different generations. Teenagers traipse up and down the streets, stopping at the shoe boutiques or electronics stores that pepper the blocks. They congregate near the large McDonalds across the street from the metro. Mothers walk alone or in pairs, pushing strollers or lovingly leading their well dressed, newly walking toddlers by the hand. Sharply dressed businessmen plow down the sidewalk, their shiny dress shoes reflecting the sun as they make wide strides, briefcases bouncing at their sides. The older generations stroll arm in arm, always dressed fashionably in dresses, woolen cardigans, and fedoras, brandishing their canes. The abuelas** chat while the abuelos*** discuss politics. Once in a while, a Real Madrid player can be spotted gracing the humble streets, or so my host mother tells me.

Although a completely modern neighborhood, Alfonso XIII emanates a comfortable, lived-in, familiar feeling. There are no big businesses in sight, only small stores and private boutiques. Hair salons and cafeterías**** abound—and are populated at all hours of the day. Walking to the metro every morning, I am accustomed to the delicious aroma of coffee and the sounds of spoons tapping the saucers and murmured exchanges between proprietors and customers filling the streets. Except for the dead of night, when the street lights are faintly reflected in the naked pavement, the neighborhood is always lively, despite its generally slow pace.

A mere 10-minute walk from the Alfonso XIII metro is the Berlin Park, which is a haven on sunny days. Birds chirp, laughing children chase each other, and runners run. The park’s entrance on Concha Espina boasts a modest fountain adorned with the unmistakable pieces of the Berlin Wall, engulfed in the trickling fountain water. Not much farther, the majestic Santiago Bernabéu Stadium towers over the street corner.

While the Alfonso XIII area does not offer chic shopping or swanky lounges, it does offer a first-class view of daily Spanish life. Walking down the neighborhood’s main street, Lopez de Hoyos, or eating lunch in one of the many sidewalk restaurants is a good way to pass a lazy, autumn, Saturday afternoon before getting dolled up and heading to the trendier districts for some evening entertainment.

*thick omelet with potatoes
**grandmas
***grandpas
****cafés

P.S.-I wrote this article for the My Metro section of the magazine I intern for. Every month, the section profiles a different neighborhood. The December issue will feature mine!