Sunday, March 28, 2010

Sevillian Civilians Part I

Stepping off the AVE train in Seville's Santa Justa station, I half expected all my six year-old memories of Seville to suddenly rush back to me. Unfortunately, my life is not one of those movies where the protagonist suddenly has flashbacks that come flooding back in intermittent bursts, triggered by some object, event, or location. I really could not remember my Sevillian August, as much as I tried. Fortunately, I now have new memories of Seville that will suffice just as well in describing the toast of Andalucia.

The second order of the day--the hotel being the first--was the cathedral. Seville is home to the largest cathedral in Spain. I have seen tons of cathedrals by now so the size did not quite phase me, but, as usual, the spectacle of the cathedral itself did not fail to impress. The Gothic facade stretches its flying buttress arms in all directions, as if it were stretching and unfolding for a yawn. The small, Spanish houses that surround the cathedral cower in its mightiness, which casts giant shadows on the plazas around it. Am I making the cathedral sound too much like Godzilla?

Although the Seville cathedral is traditionally Gothic, like the rest of the cathedrals in Spain, it also possesses strong elements of Arab influence due to Andalucia's Moorish past. The Giralda, done in the popular mudejar* style, stands erect on the perimeter of the courtyard, which is filled with orange trees, a typical Arabic design aspect. The air is filled with the sweet fragrance of the oranges. The top of the Giralda offers beautiful views of Seville as well as of the cathedral itself. However, to experience these prized views, you have to be willing to climb. Stupidly, I briefly entertained the hope of there being an elevator before beginning my climb, but sadly, elevators do not complete the mudejar style. Fortunately, the journey up to the cima** of the Giralda is one via ramps, not stairs. Thank goodness, a compromise.

Up next, an evening sprint through Seville. Stay tuned.

*Arabic style applied to Christian architecture
**top

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